Two of the heavyweights of the independent watch world are celebrating a significant joint milestone this year. H. Moser & Cie and Max Busser & Friends are celebrating 15 years of operation. For this milestone, two of the original players within the independent space decided to join forces and release two very special collaborative pieces to mark this momentous occasion. They have releases two series of watches both with purely fume dials. Across both the watches they come in a total run of 135 pieces, split into 15-piece limited editions of each dial variant.
Photo Credit: Hodinkee
H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
The Moser led watch is this. The H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillion. This is; as the name suggests, a love child of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour, and the Flying T from MB&F. It comes in at a slightly large 42.5 x 19.5mm size. It is worth noting for those of you who are not familiar, the whopping 19.5mm height is due to an absurd but brilliant curved saphire crystal. The time, in the style of the Flying T, is displayed on a floating sapphire disk that is inclined at an angle of 40 degrees. The thought process here is that it means that only the wearer can see the time, for some reason? Oh and the watch also features one of the most mesmerising, but most pointless complications on the dial, a tourbillion and frankly why the hell not??
The piece is being offered in five dial variations (funky blue, burgundy, cosmic green, off-white, and ice blue). As I have previously mentioned, each comes in a run of 15 pieces. These are surely reserved for seasoned Moser and MB&F collectors. Outside of the crazy time display and the horological engineering that goes into them in, the fume dials are the real star of the show. The way that fume interacts with natural light is something you have to see to understand, and the combination of that and the crazy dome of the crystal must make for an amazing visual spectacle.
Photo Credit: Hodinkee (Unsurprisingly)
MB&F x H. Moser LM-01
The MB&F led watch of this celebratory collaboration is based on possibly the most recognisable watch in their collection, the LM-101. This is effectively a standard LM-01 that has been given the Moser effect, which can be seen in the use of a floating sub-dial for power reserve. The use of negative space in the outer area of the dial, against the fume finish, gives a really intriguing feel of floating. The watch comes in the normal LM-01 dimensions of 40mm x 16mm. This is obviously a much more wearable watch as it does not have the huge domed crystal of the Moser.
Again this is being released as a 15 piece LE of the four dial variations, Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Red and Aqua Blue. It is worth noting that the Aqua Blue is a limited edition within a limited edition, being a special retailer edition for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.
Photo Credit: You guessed it! Hodinkee...
Unusually for a limited edition watch from a high-end independent both runs of watches are being released in stainless steel. Whilst it may be more in-keeping to release these in precious metal, the use of steel does make these watches relatively obtainable, very small production run aside... Pricing starts at £41,000 for the MB&F x H. Moser LM101 and £62,000 for the H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon. This is, of course, a crazy sum of money to spend on a watch, but considering what you are getting here, that to me seems like incredibly good value.
It is really brilliant to see a continued rise of Haute Horology Independants teaming up to offer us all watches that are the best of both worlds, and this is no exception. If you happen to be lucky enough to get your hands on one of these or even see one in the flesh, all I can say is that I am very, very jealous.
Co-Founder & Editor