© 2019 by The Young Horologist

My Watch Pet Peeves

September 5, 2018

Oversized dress watches that should be smaller

 

Style in this day and age has meant that a lot of newly released watches are being realised with very minimal designs. By this I mean two or maybe three hand watches, with a date (at a push) and simple coloured dials, whites, blacks, creams and the like. These credentials land these watches in the category of ‘dress’ in my mind. However, due to these being modern released pieces, brands have to comply with the modern expectation of wrist size… This means that you have the conundrum of offering sleek, dressy watches in terms of design, but having to put them in 40mm+ cases. This is only a pet peeve not a hate of mine because on the one hand I get it, and on the other hand for me I would rather satisfy my want for a watch of this style with something vintage; as a result it doesn’t bother me massively. It just offends me a little…

 

 The gorgeous Vacheron Constantin Patrimony... but 40mm?! WHY VACHERON??? 

 

 The vintage inspired Longines Heritage 1945... again WHY 40MM?!?! 

 

Integrated Bracelets

 

Now I am sure that I am not the only one who gets annoyed by watches with intergrated bracelets? For me, one of the biggest pleasures in this hobby is being able to put different straps on your watches! Whether that is a colourful nato on a steel sports watch, or a lovely leather two piece on a vintage dress watch to make it more casual. I appreciate completely that watches that come with integrated bracelets are the sorts of watches that the manufacturers don’t feel should be intended to have them changed, the main one being dive watches! But it would be a non-negotiable for me with a number of watches. Also just as a side note... There are a select few exceptions for me, two that immediately spring to mind are the are the Patek Phillipe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, but on the whole they do not do it for me... 

 

The aforementioned AP Royal Oak and the Patek Phillipe Nautilus 

 

 A gorgeous Omega Seamaster... which for me is ruined by the integrated bracelet... 

 A Tag Heuer Link, a line of Tag which all have integrated bracelets, not for me... 

 

 Poorly executed date windows

 

Now this a purely design orientated point. It is also for the record being quite pinacate… but never the less it is a real pet peeve for me. Now I say that this 'Peeve' is design based... but there is a little more to it than that. Unfortunately the reason (in most cases) for poorly placed date windows is actually the movements used by watch companies. The fundamental issues with date windows, in my opinion, are as follows. One, companies who use standard movements (ETA, Sellita etc) Do not have a choice as to where abouts within the movement the date function sits, due to the movement being a third party. Now, the easy solution would be to modify the movement to reposition the date window to a) where they would like it, and more importantly b) where it looks good on the dial. Saying this I completely understand that some companies cannot justify the extra cost it would take to execute this level of customisation, but never the less this is a reason why. Two, companies buy in third party movements which come with a date, and as a result feel the need to add a date window into a watch that they hadnt originally intended to have one. And although not doing this would mean there would be an empty position on the crown, which some people find to be a pet peeve in of itself, I would rather have a ghost position on the crown and have a much more considered and well thought out dial! Thirdly, and in my opinion most importantly, poor date window execution can be put down to a blatant disregard for design in terms of how the date window will fit into the design in the first place. 

 

 

 Two stunning watches, one from Zenith, and the other from Blancpain, unfortunately both let down by Date Window Placement

 

Fashion brands

 

Now I know you are all probably sitting reading this thinking "For god sake here goes Felix again... rabitting on about fashion watches." Now let me justify it. My problem in this context is not with fashion watches in general, I have voiced my opinion on that. No, my problem here is how fashion watches market themselves. It has got to the point now that every new start-up watch brand, apart from a few, market themselves as one of two things. Either as an "Affordable Luxury" brand, which is not only oxymoronic, but just moronic. The second one is the slogans of "we are disrupting the Swiss watch industry". I have two problems with this second statement. Firstly, why does the Swiss watch industry need 'disrupting'?? It is the foundation of watch making as we know it, and none of these start-up/Kickstarters would be around if it wasn't for the Swiss watch industry. And secondly, if all of these brands actually were disrupting the Swiss watch industry, how come sales of Swiss watches haven't plummeted?? And John Biver isn't running around the Alps hysterically panicking about John Smiths Daniel Wellington knock-offs ruining his quarterly sales targets?? I am all for enticing marketing to boost sales, but I draw the line at straight up Bullsh*t... 

 

                        The only thing this watch is 'disrupting' is my stomach.... 

                                  Trash... 

 Garbage... 

 

I hope you geeks enjoyed a little insight into the things that frustrate me in watch making... what are your pet peeves?? We would love to hear what grinds your gears, and if you agree or disagree with any of the ones in my list. Have a good week geeks!! 

 

Felix Arnold

Editor and Co-Founder 

 

 

 

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